Venturing into Holy Territory...

The very gracious and kind Deogarh family made sure I reached my next destination safe and sound. I was to stay at the home of an aunt & cousin of an old friend I'd recently reconnected with. Entering the town, it didn't really impress me much. I don't know what I was expecting anyway, but I was expecting it to be something else.

The home was lovely and quaint, three happy dogs that were only too eager to make sure I was covered in their fur and drool and my friends aunt, a most gracious host who made sure I ate and ate. Her daughter, my friends' cousin was to arrive the next day. The day I had planned to go to one of my most favourite places in India... probably even on earth.

I decided to take the local bus from Ajmer to Pushkar. One of the best decisions so far. I kept trying to figure out where the bus stop was - seems you just stand on the side of the main road and wave buses down as they pass by. Had I not met 4 very sweet men, I'd have waited in the hot desert sun, waving down lots of buses for a good 45 minutes.

There was a shop keeper, a security guard and a friend of theirs casually seated outside the shop. I asked them which bus would take this married-to-a-Jaipur-Rajput-thus-not-a-firang-thus-Hindi-speaking-one-year-old-mother to Pushkar. They told me there was no fixed time but it should come soon. They were so kind, told me to stand in the shade, offered me the one chair they had to sit on. I thanked them and declined politely. There was a handicapped man sitting in his wheelchair near by too. He also smiled and joined in trying to help me with stopping the right bus. I guess it became a game for them all too. Guessing when it would actually come. They told me how much the ticket would cost me, how long the journey would take and how the transport system in Ajmer works. The bus finally arrived but stopped 500 metres away. They told me to run - 'bhaago bhaago'! I sprinted to it, right in front of it so the driver would see someone running like a maniac and hopefully wait. As luck would have it he did.

I jumped in and made my way in. The conductor was... well lets say a full 'hero'. Sunglasses, shirt buttons open, wild hair and when he saw me asked me in English 'where you want go?' I replied 'Pushkar' and then in Hindi confirmed that the ticket costs sixteen rupees. He pulled his sunglasses down on his nose with one finger and looks at me and rather disappointed, says in English 'You speak Hindi?' I said yes happily. He gave me my change and ticket, told me to sit down.

What an interesting and lovely ride. I had a poor, old man in a beautiful turban sitting across from me. He wanted to communicate with me but he didn't speak Hindi. So with facial expressions and hand gestures, he figured out I was going to Pushkar, not for the first time, that I love it and that he was getting off before it as he lived there. Everyone on the bus was smiling, courteous and didn't bother me.

As we almost reached Pushkar, all the familiar sights brought back a rush of memories. I knew this place, I knew its streets, I knew its peace. What I didn't know was that it held 2 surprises for me...

The Handicapped Man and a family also awaiting a bus

The security guard, friend and shop keeper looking out for my bus

The sweet turbaned man with whom I played charades on the bus to communicate

Ajmer and Ajmer lake in the distance as we start the climb to Pushkar

The second I see this, I know I've reached bliss...

Fort to Palace...

No one bothered me as I walked up, down and around Kumbhalgarh Fort. I felt safe, I felt happy, I had time and literally the whole Fort to myself! Best of all, I was actually in the moment, breathing for each moment. They say when you start enjoying your own company like that, is when you need to start being careful. That's when you can risk crossing the thin red line and become a loner. I don't quite agree though. I think its very important for us to have these moments with ourselves. Doing things or standing up for yourself doesn't make you selfish; spending time and enjoying your own company doesn't mean you will never like spending time with anyone else. Besides, we are all loners to some degree aren't we?

Time to move forward. The highway was beautiful - great roads, no traffic, I wished I was driving a Range Rover or an Audi Q7. It'll come someday - some kind soul will hand me the keys and say 'here you go, a small present for being you'. And I'll say 'What?!? Thanks but no I can't'. And they'll say 'it's already been registered in your name, you deserve it'. And I'll be gobsmacked, we'll go back & forth but eventually I'll accept it. Yay, that day just can't come soon enough, but the day-dreaming comes... to a standstill just like the car I'm in does.

Welcome to Deogarh. One narrow street full of cars, people, bikes, dogs, cows and mini tempos with shops lining either side, leads me to my destination. The most vibrant colors burst around and above me. It instantly brought a smile to my face. As I observed all of this and more, we started moving towards the ever so magnificent Deogarh Mahal.

A kind friend & music producer Raajeev Sharma suggested I go stay there and meet with his friends, the Deogarhs. It was a great recommendation. A perfect place to relax. I was given a suite which had the oldest paintings (left untouched) in the whole Palace. The whole Palace (despite being so huge) has such an ease about it, it made me feel right at home. I loved that the chef decided what I should eat for breakfast, lunch and dinner - keeping all my likes/dislikes in mind. He would run it past me daily and I was more than happy to just say yes - saved me the effort of going through a menu and making a decision. One less thing to think about. And this time, as I looked out of my balcony at the hills on the horizon, way beyond the borders of this town, I felt like a different kind of Princess - one that was more comfortable with the idea of this being her Royal 'home' rather than a Princess that was overwhelmed and excited by opulance, grandeur & sparkles. This Palace just had a special, loving, quaint, homely aura about it.

I was very well looked after by the Deogarhs. I was shown around the Palace, met with the very sweet and lovely Queen Mother and thoroughly entertained by the wit, jokes and deep, magical conversations we all had with each other. Shatrunjai, Bhavnakumari and the kids took me around and beyond Deogarh, showed me different parts of it, explained a lot about its history, the people, wildlife and even took me to a very, very special spot - for which I shall be eternally grateful. They were so warm, hospitable and took such great care of me, I felt like a part of their family, like we'd been friends for years.

The landscape around was just so bare. A few rocks, cactii, shrubs & trees. It literally had nothing else. Yet I was nothing short of mesmerised. There was a beauty in it that I couldn't put my finger on. It had such a magnetic pull, I was deeply attracted to it. And all I could think of was shedding. Shedding and letting go. Releasing. Being as bare & barren as this desert, this landscape. Stripping down to the basics, the essence. If people want to be around me, they will - I will not run after them. I will release them with gratitude, love and peace. I will not run after work. I will not run after all the things I think I want. I will do everything within my capacity to make things happen, let people feel loved etc but after that I will let go. What's meant to be will be, there is only so much I can do. Accepting that, was a release in itself.

So, I let go... of everything. I shed all that was unnecessary, all that was not beneficial or of any use to me - feelings, thoughts & emotions like guilt, fear etc. it was a conscious decision and quite a struggle. But I did it. And instantly, I felt much lighter. I was just being. And breathing. And being. And breathing. 

Deogarh turned out to be a very spiritual experience for me on many levels. Special conversations, special energies in very special spots and I was like the driest sponge soaking it all in to the very depths of my being. This was a true blessing. And the start of a blessed journey...

The single lane with 2 way traffic, mini tempos, bikes, shops, colors...

...people, cows, bicycles leave you fascinated!!

The Grand Entrance

My Suite

My bedroom which has the oldest paintings in the Palace, that have been left untouched. So much history, gives you a special warm feeling. This picture really doesn't do it justice...

Loved how high my bathroom ceiling was! 

The mirror room most Palaces have. Don't I just fit in and look like I was born to play the part of a Princess?? ;)

Lounge Area of the Presidential Suite

The main entrance to the Palace, Restaurant and Rooms

A very special Banyan Tree...

Om Namah Shivay! This Trishul has quite an interesting story behind it.

Do you see him??? 

The Royal Burial Ground.

Where I am standing is actually a dry lake. I'm told its now full. The line on the rock beside my face is where the water usually fills up till.

With the wonderful & caring Deogarh family.

A most stunning sunset 

There was such beauty in the barren landscape...

Blue cow!! Neel Guy - I spotted him and barely had time to click him properly!

The view from the Palace terrace

One of its many beautiful 'onion' domes

Udaipur - Kumbhalgarh ... Thoughts

I left Udaipur with a mind full of questions, a heart full of love and a soul seeking answers. As I watched the stone houses, little villages and dry landscape pass me by, I wondered if I could give up my life, my friends, my family, my work and my everyday existence which would seem like a luxury to these villagers. I mean, I've done it before. It's hard but it's not impossible to do.

I've always been someone thats followed her heart and been extremely passionate. But would I be able to live in a village? Live the 'daily' life that my fellow brothers and sisters live? I have no doubt I will make new friends, be a part of a new family, get some kind of work and have a roof over my head. But will I be able to fully embrace this life and adapt to it? They say its easy adjust to rising over falling. Would this be falling? It would mean cutting down on lots of things that I have grown used to: breaking habits. Would I be happy? That is something I'm not sure of. But then am I really happy where I am? I am grateful. I am content. But I don't know that I could say that I am happy. Are any of us?

The more we have, the more we want. It's human nature. But what if all we have are the basics? That'd require a whole new set of survival skills and psychology to be able to accept it and live with it. Maybe what I needed was balance. To be close enough to understand their ways and provide help, to be far enough to be able to keep doing the work I know how to do best (so I can be of more help too). But then again where does one start? How do you pick one problem when there are a million? I'm equally passionate about all the following causes:

- educating children without our non sensical, out dated educational system where you are smart if you remember things word for word like a parrot. Let them learn through projects, experience, music, art, sport, research... letting them learn to open their minds and ask questions.
- clean water for all and environmental awareness - saving water, recycling, using alternative sources for electricity.
- the fight between villagers and forests, conserving our wild life, putting an end to poaching.
- animal rights.
- creating work opportunities for people in their villages so they are not forced to leave their homes and over populate the big cities.
- 'proper' health care for all.
- adult education - teaching farmers better techniques, organic farming, teaching them to stand up for themselves and be self sufficient, teach them to think of long term benefits and not just short term relief, teach them about civic sense and cleanliness.
- womens' rights, their empowerment and safety.

If I gave up my life and worked for all these causes, would it make me happy? Maybe happiness is over-rated. Maybe we give it too much importance. Happiness comes and goes. Maybe the Zen like state, is that of simply being content. Happiness and sadness come and go - its a cycle that never ends. But to be detached from both is the key.

So as I reached the massive walls of the ever so humongous and jaw dropping Mewar Fortress called - Kumbhalgarh Fort, I decided to try that out. To be content with where I am, who I am and the situation I am currently in. No expectations. To see the blessings around me. To accept I may not be able to do all the things I want to to help, but that I had taken a step in that direction, so I must be on the right path. I may not know yet what it is I will do, but it's okay. I don't have to have all the answers immediately. It will come when it has to.

As of now, this moment, noon, peak heat season in Rajasthan, I decided I was going to lose myself in the magic, beauty and magnanimity of my surroundings: the birthplace of Maharana Pratap Singh. How insane to have built this in the 15th Century! How did they possibly climb up and down with all their heavy swords, attire and gear? So much wonder and amazement!

I kept climbing higher, the sun shone upon me with all its might and I loved every single minute of it. I, by myself, with myself had such a fantastic time.  Here's a few pictures... hope you have a good time seeing them too.