Showing posts with label Pushkar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pushkar. Show all posts
Holy Surprises!


As I walked up and down the narrow streets I knew so well, I found it comforting that not much seemed to have changed. I could describe Pushkar in one word - beautiful, but a whole bunch of words even, would not be able to describe the kind of calm and release it brings to my soul. I made my way down to one of the many Ghats. I walked along the lake and sat on the steps a little distance away from a Sadhu who seemed to be oblivious to the world around him.

I took in deep, long breaths; sat and sat and sat... I started to think about how this trip to Rajasthan worked out, how everything had been falling into place - almost like it was something that had been pre planned - destined. I slipped in and out of my past: how much I have been through in my life, how I've managed to survive these past few years especially. I was amazed and almost proud of my own strength. Sure I've broken down, bawled for days on end, whined even to a few close friends who sat patiently and listened, prayed to a God or anybody out there. I thought of the people that today are in my heart, of how much I have to be grateful for despite everything. Thoughts then shifted to the future: what I am doing with my life, what is left for me to do, how am I going to support myself, what do I truly want out of life, will I ever have a family of my own, will I be a workaholic... I had no answers.

I decided to go to the Brahma Temple. It's the only one in the world. Walking there I got stopped by 2 women - sisters with a sweet little baby boy Ronak. He was all smiles and just reached out for me. I took him into my arms and he held my cheek, looking at me. He was adorable and I was in love. This little child was so at home with me, you'd never think this was the first time we met. Some twenty minutes later, his mom had to leave. He held on to my finger super tight, which he only let go off once I handed him my chocolate. I clicked a picture of them and carried on towards the Brahma Temple.

Tons of little shops before the Temple sell you baskets of offerings, you can chose if you want to spend Rs.50 or Rs.100 on them. I told the guy to give me one for Rs.100. I was also told I had to leave my slippers and bags with them in one of their wooden boxes with locks. So I did, armed with a key and my basket of offerings I walked up the stairs, amidst tons of people that seemed to have come out of nowhere.

There was a long horizontal queue (as is the norm in India). The priest looked like a slightly irritable robot, mechanically taking baskets of offerings, sorting out what stayed by the idol and did it at the speed of light. I had time to observe him since everyone just kept on butting in and breaking the 'queue'. Never did he stop - not to wipe the sweat off his forehead, nor to look up at anyone, let alone speak to anyone.  My turn finally came and he took my basket exactly like did with everyone else, except whilst handing it back, he stopped. He held it in his hand, looked at me and told me somethings. I was taken aback because 1. he spoke 2. the nature of the things he said. We had an exchange of dialogue as I didn't quite understand what I was meant to do with the instructions he gave me. Despite people pushing and shoving their offerings towards him, I felt and heard nothing... it was almost as if time had stopped and it was just him and me there. He finally said to me 'I had to give you this message is all I know, how you want to interpret it and what you do with it is not my problem, I've done what I was meant to, now you do whatever you want to'. With that he shoved my basket back into my hands, head down again and was back in robot mode. I was still in shock and kept looking at him to see if he did this with anyone else. He didn't. I later asked a friend who is a local and she too was most surprised saying in all her years, she's never seen him speak to anyone, never to her either.

I headed back to the Ghats. I saw a staircase - very dirty, broken that looked like it hadn't been used in years. No one seemed to be going up there. But something inside me kept gnawing at me to climb. To my surprise, it was a beautiful marble Temple - protected by the Government of India. As children next door were reciting shlokas and chanting I thought to myself - why can't they maintain anything in this country, especially something that is protected? It's so pretty, has such a serene & positive vibe, it's a shame people don't even know of this spot. But then, on second thought it's probably better this way, tucked away and still stays serenely sacred.

My friends' cousin called. She had arrived and was driving to Pushkar to meet me, have dinner with me and then take me back to her home in Ajmer. She asked me to meet her at one of Pushkars' sweetest spots - Sunset Cafe. We met, hit it off instantly and after enjoying one of the most beautiful sunsets of my life, walked the streets of Pushkar by night. She got me to taste my first malpuas (great for my palette, a catastrophe for my thighs). She then told me she had a surprise for me, said it was from my past but refused to tell me anymore.

Soon we were following a car, driving through some bumpy narrow roads in darkness broken by the cars' headlights. We got into a very pretty resort and from the car ahead of us, emerged a friend I hadn't seen or met in 17 years!! I couldn't believe it! It just so happened that he called her to ask what she was upto in the evening and she said she was looking after a friend of her cousin (who was also a part of the same group 17 years ago). She mentioned Ramona, he put two and two together and told her not to say a word, he'd surprise me. And boy did he! It turned out to be such an amazing dinner, we laughed, reminisced, reminded each other of stories, moments, people, caught up on who's doing what in life now...

I love it when life brings positive unexpected surprises my way. As my head touched the pillow that night, all I could feel was gratitude throbbing through every single vein in me. So much gratitude for this day, for this trip, for these people... I came to Pushkar alone, I left with 2 friends - one old, one new.

Now you know why I call Pushkar my magic place... OM!!!    :)


The Vishnu Temple
Sugar, grains, coconuts....
Sadhu on the steps 
The sweet ladies and the adorable Ronak with the 5 star bar in his hand.
Har Har Mahadev.
Beautiful Protected Heritage Temple I accidentally stumbled upon.
Be.
Meditate.
Contemplate.
The view from Sunset Cafe...
Magic...
Om Bhur Bhuva Svaha, Tat Savitur Varenyam, Bhargo Devasya Dhee Mahi, Dheyo Yona Prachodayat.
Gotta love Kikasso
Colorful women in pardah shopping for jewelry
The Maker...
His Mmmmm Creation... Fresh hot sugary Malpuas

Venturing into Holy Territory...

The very gracious and kind Deogarh family made sure I reached my next destination safe and sound. I was to stay at the home of an aunt & cousin of an old friend I'd recently reconnected with. Entering the town, it didn't really impress me much. I don't know what I was expecting anyway, but I was expecting it to be something else.

The home was lovely and quaint, three happy dogs that were only too eager to make sure I was covered in their fur and drool and my friends aunt, a most gracious host who made sure I ate and ate. Her daughter, my friends' cousin was to arrive the next day. The day I had planned to go to one of my most favourite places in India... probably even on earth.

I decided to take the local bus from Ajmer to Pushkar. One of the best decisions so far. I kept trying to figure out where the bus stop was - seems you just stand on the side of the main road and wave buses down as they pass by. Had I not met 4 very sweet men, I'd have waited in the hot desert sun, waving down lots of buses for a good 45 minutes.

There was a shop keeper, a security guard and a friend of theirs casually seated outside the shop. I asked them which bus would take this married-to-a-Jaipur-Rajput-thus-not-a-firang-thus-Hindi-speaking-one-year-old-mother to Pushkar. They told me there was no fixed time but it should come soon. They were so kind, told me to stand in the shade, offered me the one chair they had to sit on. I thanked them and declined politely. There was a handicapped man sitting in his wheelchair near by too. He also smiled and joined in trying to help me with stopping the right bus. I guess it became a game for them all too. Guessing when it would actually come. They told me how much the ticket would cost me, how long the journey would take and how the transport system in Ajmer works. The bus finally arrived but stopped 500 metres away. They told me to run - 'bhaago bhaago'! I sprinted to it, right in front of it so the driver would see someone running like a maniac and hopefully wait. As luck would have it he did.

I jumped in and made my way in. The conductor was... well lets say a full 'hero'. Sunglasses, shirt buttons open, wild hair and when he saw me asked me in English 'where you want go?' I replied 'Pushkar' and then in Hindi confirmed that the ticket costs sixteen rupees. He pulled his sunglasses down on his nose with one finger and looks at me and rather disappointed, says in English 'You speak Hindi?' I said yes happily. He gave me my change and ticket, told me to sit down.

What an interesting and lovely ride. I had a poor, old man in a beautiful turban sitting across from me. He wanted to communicate with me but he didn't speak Hindi. So with facial expressions and hand gestures, he figured out I was going to Pushkar, not for the first time, that I love it and that he was getting off before it as he lived there. Everyone on the bus was smiling, courteous and didn't bother me.

As we almost reached Pushkar, all the familiar sights brought back a rush of memories. I knew this place, I knew its streets, I knew its peace. What I didn't know was that it held 2 surprises for me...

The Handicapped Man and a family also awaiting a bus
The security guard, friend and shop keeper looking out for my bus
The sweet turbaned man with whom I played charades on the bus to communicate
Ajmer and Ajmer lake in the distance as we start the climb to Pushkar

The second I see this, I know I've reached bliss...